The Journey
8/10/2019
My journey started over three decades ago, while a student at UCLA, when I signed up for a summer abroad program in Florence, Italy. Yet, the real impetus to this journey was actually born in my seventh grade French class. It was the mysterious, red-headed Miss Caccamo who planted the seed of my dream to go to Europe one day. French in middle school and high school didn't provide me with much more than some basic vocabulary. Having friends to practice Spanish with in college had a more successful outcome. With my suitcase packed and armed with Italian 3 level skills I was just dangerous enough to ignite some excitement during my Italian summer adventure. As I stumbled over my words, breaking them in like an new pair of shoes, I gained the confidence to do things that I never dreamed possible. To make a very long story short (how do you fit 30+ years into a blog and not scare away readers?), I married my Florentine boy. We were young and not so worldly, but we were daring. Our journey has been beautiful and unique, but it's also been hard and painful at times. Only upon deeply reflecting recently have I realized the extent to how very daring our choice to be together has been. Navigating a life while longing for loved ones on another continent has been a messy, messy business on so many levels. Nevertheless, we realize how very blessed we are to have had the opportunities that our lifestyle has afforded us. This travelogue is not a chronological, autobiographic account. It serves not only as a way for me to document and reminisce on our life well-lived, but to inspire others who might just need a nudge in the direction of taking some courageous steps....and maybe, just maybe, you will find some new places to visit.
Nine Months
8/10/2019
Stop right there! It's not what you are thinking! Think back to a time when there were no computers and no mobile phones (for some of you, you will need to imagine since you weren't born yet). Telephone calls overseas were expensive (over $2 per minute) and most communication had to take place via snail mail. A letter from Italy to California took from 10 days to two weeks to arrive (if you forgot to write Air Mail and pay extra for that stamp, it could take months to arrive by boat to east coast and then by truck to California).
After only one summer in Florence with Stefano, I knew that I was going to marry him (actually, I knew after the first week). I had bravely informed my parents that I would not be returning to California because I had fallen in love. Well, I don't think that it takes much imagination to figure out how my parents reacted to that news. So, with a heavy heart and rivers of tears, I bid arrivederci to my love and headed back to finish up my final two quarters at UCLA. My plan was to graduate in the Spring and buy a one-way ticket back to Florence. We knew that telephone calls would be few and far between, so we pledged to write letters as much as possible.
After only one summer in Florence with Stefano, I knew that I was going to marry him (actually, I knew after the first week). I had bravely informed my parents that I would not be returning to California because I had fallen in love. Well, I don't think that it takes much imagination to figure out how my parents reacted to that news. So, with a heavy heart and rivers of tears, I bid arrivederci to my love and headed back to finish up my final two quarters at UCLA. My plan was to graduate in the Spring and buy a one-way ticket back to Florence. We knew that telephone calls would be few and far between, so we pledged to write letters as much as possible.
Nine months of letters. Do you know how well you can get to know someone when you write letters? Each letter I wrote was pages and pages long, painstakingly painting the details that were my life, my hopes, and my dreams. When Stefano's letters arrived, I felt the anticipation like a kid at Christmas waiting to open her presents. Some weeks no letter would come, while other weeks a stack of five would arrive. I pored over the letters, savouring each sweet word he wrote. Despite the distance, our relationship deepened. I am convinced that this time of physical separation allowed us the space to get to know one another on a more emotional level. Now apps like Skype, Facetime, and WhatsApp can fill the gap and allow people to spend some virtual time together. It is said that necessity is the mother of invention, and nine months was a long time to be apart. Some daring creativity led us to a technological break through that was ahead of it's time. You won't want to miss this story.
The Magic Telephone
8/10/2019
The town of Sesto Fiorentino played an important role in helping me and Stefano to maintain our long distance relationship. Florence has always been the hub of artistic souls and scholars who travel from afar to explore their passions. Just like us, they left behind their love ones and struggled with the inability to have instantaneous communication.
This story is about a magic telephone. Back in the 80's, telephone service was very expensive. Stefano called me on occasion with a pay phone near his house. On this particular night all of the phones in the area were occupied. He decided to go outside of town so he might have better luck finding a unoccupied phone booth where he wouldn't be disturbed. Equipped with a pocketful of change for a quick, yet expensive phone call, Stefano dropped a coin into the pay phone to initiate the call. Typically, those greedy Italian phones demanded another coin after each minute. On this night, the Magic Phone stopped asking for more coins after the third coin. What a treat it was to be able to talk without getting cut off and without spending a fortune. Stefano decided to go back the next night and try again. It magically worked, three coins and then nothing. By the third time we realized that we had something magical going on. Different time zones, work and school schedules often made it hard for him to find me at home. But when we did connect, it was a whirlwind of emotions. One winter night we even stayed on the phone for 6 hours and poor Stefano ended up with bronchitis. We never understood how or why our Magic Telephone worked. I'd like to think it was destiny. Those calls were a gift that sustained us during those long months apart. It actually kept working for about two years before someone probably discovered the malfunction. It was a godsend to me when I was trying to keep in touch with my family in the states after I moved back to Italy.
Today, whenever we drive by the Sesto Fiorentino exit on the freeway, I can't help but smile and think about the role that place played in our relationship. While it certainly does not match the grandeur and history of Florence, there are some artistic treasures and history that mark its significance in the region.
So if you ever go to Sesto Fiorentine and see a public pay phone, it could be our Magic Telephone. Today's mobile phones and wifi hotspots have made pay phone virtually obsolete, but the magic that we experienced could be just around the corner waiting for a new opportunity. You never know!
This story is about a magic telephone. Back in the 80's, telephone service was very expensive. Stefano called me on occasion with a pay phone near his house. On this particular night all of the phones in the area were occupied. He decided to go outside of town so he might have better luck finding a unoccupied phone booth where he wouldn't be disturbed. Equipped with a pocketful of change for a quick, yet expensive phone call, Stefano dropped a coin into the pay phone to initiate the call. Typically, those greedy Italian phones demanded another coin after each minute. On this night, the Magic Phone stopped asking for more coins after the third coin. What a treat it was to be able to talk without getting cut off and without spending a fortune. Stefano decided to go back the next night and try again. It magically worked, three coins and then nothing. By the third time we realized that we had something magical going on. Different time zones, work and school schedules often made it hard for him to find me at home. But when we did connect, it was a whirlwind of emotions. One winter night we even stayed on the phone for 6 hours and poor Stefano ended up with bronchitis. We never understood how or why our Magic Telephone worked. I'd like to think it was destiny. Those calls were a gift that sustained us during those long months apart. It actually kept working for about two years before someone probably discovered the malfunction. It was a godsend to me when I was trying to keep in touch with my family in the states after I moved back to Italy.
Today, whenever we drive by the Sesto Fiorentino exit on the freeway, I can't help but smile and think about the role that place played in our relationship. While it certainly does not match the grandeur and history of Florence, there are some artistic treasures and history that mark its significance in the region.
So if you ever go to Sesto Fiorentine and see a public pay phone, it could be our Magic Telephone. Today's mobile phones and wifi hotspots have made pay phone virtually obsolete, but the magic that we experienced could be just around the corner waiting for a new opportunity. You never know!
Fast Forward 35 Years
8/11/2019
While studying Italian at UCLA, I met a classmate, Karna. We were in an Italian play together and bonded over a mutual love for all things Italy, and especially Florence. After I had graduated from college and moved there, Karna came over to Florence for her study abroad summer. Stefano and I introduced her to our Italian friends. Even after 35 years, we are still in touch. We still meet up in Florence every so often, which is always a treat.
This summer we were able to meet up with Karna in Sicily. She and her husband invited us to the Taormina Film Fest. It's a prestigious film festival that has been around for 65 years. Karna's husband, Morris produced the film. Ladies in Black, that was headlining the festival on the opening night. *Here's a plug for the movie. It was a refreshing, feel-good movie that I heartily recommend.* So, yes, being able to walk the red carpet was quite the experience as we wore our fanciest clothes and star-gazed for both Italian and American film stars. It is no wonder they picked Taormina as the backdrop to the festival.
Taormina is located near Messina in northeastern Sicily, at about 800 feet above sea level. The main square, Piazza IX Aprile, hosts the best photo-ops in town as it is perched on the rocky cliffs that overlook the turquoise waters of the ionian Sea.
The main street, Corso Umberto, is for pedestrians only, It's lined with trendy outdoor cafes and restaurants, pricey shops, and elegant hotels.
I spent one early morning losing myself in the maze of narrow cobblestone streets that diverged from Corso Umberto. It was a smorgasbord for senses as I savoured the brilliant pink bougainvilea-draped buldings, the delicious smells of freshly baked goods wafting from the bakeries, and the sleepy rhythm of a village on the verge of starting its day. If you go to Taormina during the summer months be prepared for the crowds. It was a treat to have the place to myself at 6:30 in the morning before the commotion began. It was just me and the cats...lots of cats!
The soft yellow, cream, salmon, and pink hues of the buildings are contrasted by the bold colors of ceramic tiles on walls, stairs, and floors. Shop windows, balconies, and building facades are adorned with a menagerie of lively Majolic ceramics created by local artists. The whimsical ceramic heads and pinecones are reflective of the rich Middle Eastern, Greek, and Spanish cultural influences.
Ancient churches are nestled around every corner. Take the time to go in and enjoy the peaceful surroundings. You may even be fortunate to see a church all dressed up for a wedding, like we did.
Taormina's location high above the sea treated us to some breathtaking views. Little did we know when we booked our economically priced apartment at Hotel Vello D'Oro , that it was located in an old hotel perched even higher above the main piazza. While the hotel is far from luxury, it is simple and clean with an unbeatable view. Just down the stairs (lots and lots of stairs) is the main piazza. We couldn't have found a better location.
The upper terrace gave us a 360 degree birds eye view of this charming little gem of a town. Granted, there were lots of steps to climb to reach our hotel from below, but it was well worth the effort. One day my iPhone even praised me for achieving a record-breaking 20,000 steps walked and 49 flights of stairs climbed in one day.
About 55 km southwest of Taormina stands Mount Etna, the largest active volcano in Europe, I watched the smoke occasionally spurt from the summit and tried to imagine how spectacular an eruption would look. Coincidentally, while we were in Sicily, 100 miles away, on the island of Stromboli, the volcano erupted, killing three hikers. The video I posted below shows just how close people build their houses to the active volcano. As it turned out, Mt. Etna erupted about 2 weeks after we left. We would have been far enough away to be safe, so I'm sure sorry that I missed that show!
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Here we are balancing on the black volcanic rock that has accumulated along the slopes of Mt. Etna. It looks like dark soil, but it's hard, sharp volcanic rock. It was hard to believe how far the lava flow traveled from the summit. We never made it to the top of the summit, but we sure did enjoy a lovely lunch nearby. Given the volatility of these active volcanoes we were amazed that there were still buildings and houses nearby. The owner of the restaurant told us that they had just rebuilt their establishment after it was destroyed by a prior eruption.
Recommendations
I would come back again to Taormina in a heartbeat, though it would be more comfortable in the late spring or early fall due to the high volume of tourists and the scorching heat of July. Next time I want to spend more time at the beach, so I probably won't stay in the city center. I would spend a few days in Taormina and then find a beach village along the coast somewhere else. Parking is not easy in Taormina so try to find accommodations that provide parking. Here are a few places that I will definitely remember when I return:
La Napoletana- I had the Zucchina pizza...hands down the best pizza I've ever eaten!
La Scala- We arrived around midnight from the airport and this place was right outside of our apartment door. Though the reviews on Trip Advisor aren't great, our pizza was just fine. You couldn't beat the wonderful atmosphere of a restaurant with tables flowing down the stone stairs and live music to boot.
Gelatomania-I think I got a gelato here every single day of our stay in Taormina. There was every flavor that you could imagine. Salted caramel was my favorite flavor.
I would come back again to Taormina in a heartbeat, though it would be more comfortable in the late spring or early fall due to the high volume of tourists and the scorching heat of July. Next time I want to spend more time at the beach, so I probably won't stay in the city center. I would spend a few days in Taormina and then find a beach village along the coast somewhere else. Parking is not easy in Taormina so try to find accommodations that provide parking. Here are a few places that I will definitely remember when I return:
La Napoletana- I had the Zucchina pizza...hands down the best pizza I've ever eaten!
La Scala- We arrived around midnight from the airport and this place was right outside of our apartment door. Though the reviews on Trip Advisor aren't great, our pizza was just fine. You couldn't beat the wonderful atmosphere of a restaurant with tables flowing down the stone stairs and live music to boot.
Gelatomania-I think I got a gelato here every single day of our stay in Taormina. There was every flavor that you could imagine. Salted caramel was my favorite flavor.
Photos used under Creative Commons from ChrisL_AK, verchmarco